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Nicoise salad right or left? – Liberation

Refrigerator Battle Day 3

For a whole week, authors, vintners, restaurateurs and historians take cabbage for food politics. Today: Nicoise salad.

If there is one topic that divides around the table, it is politics. Yes, and the dishes themselves can be a subject of controversy. Take, just in case, Burgundy beef: for the publisher Antonin Iommi-Amunategui (Nouriturfu), it is impossible to delay, “This is decidedly the right dish. It’s all said in a nutshell: first beef, good meat good in saucewhose breeding is known one of the four or five major environmental wounds. Then Burgundy, the most traditional region in the world.” But then what would the dish on the left look like? “With sauerkraut, of course” wine merchant Mathieu Levy (Semele, Paris, XIe) answers: “This is a cheap, vitamin C-rich, easy-to-storage dish that could save the entire population from winter hunger. And then, despite the variations, we can talk about the union of sauerkraut.

Because that’s what’s at stake in this dishonest, and therefore fascinating, debate: according to his very personal definition of left or right, the plates are bursting from one end of the political spectrum. To continue this week’s fighting between two revolutions (mills), let’s ask questions that irritate: Nicoise salad on the right or on the left?

Previous Fridge Battle Series

Elodie Louchez, journalist, director, organizer of natural wine fairs

“Nicoise salad – left”

“Nicoise salad is leftist because of simple and inexpensive ingredients: tomatoes, anchovies, olives. However, this may slide to the right as we watch Macron being referred to by the Hungarian newspapers as a “salad niçoise” because of his appearance. “light, non-splintering and expendable at any time”… But at its core, it’s a leftist dish because it’s made from inexpensive, local, seasonal produce. Moreover, Auguste Escoffier suggested a more invigorating version with beans and potatoes.

“Nicoise salad is a recipe facing the sea. This is an outlet to the Mediterranean Sea, a meeting place and a mixture of several civilizations. Identity is never pure or fixed. Let’s not forget that Nice knew a lot of personalities. She was Greek, Roman, Italian, Provencal and French. This is a city that is constantly being redefined, is in motion, in which there is nothing stable, like people, like life. Nicoise salad is perhaps the strangest of all salads.

Elodie Louchez is a press and television writer. She created with her partner Marie Carroget the first salon of natural vine growers in Nantes,…

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